it all mean you ask? Well, it means that the waves are high at the beach and are just right to go surfing if you feel the need. Of course, you feel the need, that’s what life is about isn’t it? Isn’t it? Well for those who do the work to live thing, it is!
It’s the time when that one elusive wave is searched for, one that will take you for the ride of your life (well today at least), the one you don’t have to share with the ‘bro’s‘ because you were at the rise first. It means that you have been on high alert (which is daily by the way if you are a ‘true’ surfer) watching and listening and you know where the wind is coming from and you hope it doesn’t turn. It means that the surfboard is in the back of the car, waxed and at the ready. The wetsuits are just about dry from the last time you were out and you manage to wriggle into it beneath a covering of the sandy, raggy towel you drag out of the car, give a shake and wrap around your body.
Surfers, remarkably, seem to be experts at towel contortionism (if there is such a word) in public places, especially carparks. It’s no mean feat pulling down the day clothes from beneath the towel without anything falling out that would land you in the local police station. Pulling up the thick, rubbery, sometimes damp wetsuit under the same conditions is something to be practiced too by the newly recruited members of the pull of the sea brigade. Mind you, when you come to think of it, isn’t this how mum used to get you changed at the beach when you were a toddler? Only then, there was the extra pair of hands waiting to catch the falling towel. It didn’t really matter back then as passers-by would just declare “naww, how cute” wooaa, not now for sure. I digress. That is another subject altogether of which I will not go to.
Then there’s the dropping of the towel at the required
time to twist and turn the torso so the zip puller is grasped and pulled over
the shoulder so the zipper has pulled the whole rubber outfit together and you
can go on your surfing quest. Don’t forget there is the car key issue to deal with
but that is a secret only the surfer knows so I’m not going to let in on that
one.
‘SURF’S UP’
Post Views : 267